Моё Ганьсу: Северное Предтибетье, часть III

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А начиналось мое путешествие довольно обыденно. Рано утром мы с моим другом, амдосцем Церингом, выступавшим в качестве хорошей компании, помощника и толмача, выехали из Синина в Ребконг. Дорога живописно пролегала вдоль реки Хуанхэ, что в переводе с китайского значит “Желтая река”. Цветом своих вод Хуанхэ полностью оправдывает свое название.

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Вопреки моим ожиданиям, дорога не более четырех часов, так что я даже не успел устать от нее. Ко всему прочему, местами однообразие серого пасмурного ландшафта оживляли пляшущие человечки намалеванные на барьерном ограждении, да гигантские молитвенные барабаны, построенные по ходу водных потоков, питающих ГЭС.

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В Ребконге (правильно город называется Тонгрен, ибо Ребконг – название деревушки тхангкописцев, расположенной в 10 километрах от города) разместились в отеле “Rebgong”. Этот довольно неплохой, даже, пожалуй, лучший в городе отель уровня двух звезд расположен недалеко на окраине города, на возвышении, откуда открывается панорамный вид на город и монастырь. Отсюда мы отправились на осмотр достопримечательностей.

Главной достопримечательностью в городе оказался монастырь Ронгво. Это большой и зажиточный монастырь, в котором на сегодняшний день проживает около тысячи монахов. Вход в монастырь платный, размер рекомендуемого щельдепа составляет 40 юаней (около 8 долларов). Вообще, в Тибете почти все монастыри требуют плату за вход, и плату не маленькую: мечта Кирилла, нашего, Гундяева. В обязательном порядке плату требуют с китайцев и иностранцев, но иногда пытаются даже облагать данью своих – тибетцев. Церинг пару раз отбрахивался от излишне ретивых слуг Господа нашего Будды, пытавшихся обложить его данью. Вообще говоря, всю дорогу мне частенько вспоминались записки Гамбожапа Цыбикова, который, к слову, тоже бывал в этих местах. Особенно меня радует описанный им эпизод про ламу-разбойника, который, оставив духовное служение, предпочел грабить караваны. В наши дни прогресс в регионе заметен невооруженным глазом: более грабить караваны нужды нет. Достаточно установить недешевое обязательное пожертвование.

Мы неспешно прогуливались по монастырю, переходя из часовни в часовню, из зала в зал. Там мы попали в главный зал собраний, большой холл, где монахи собираются на богомолье. Зал этот богато украшен и хорошо освещен. В центре зала стоит трон, а на троне находится портрет покрытый непрозрачным шелком. Стоило нам подойти к трону, как тут же, словно чертик из табакерки, непонятно откуда появился важного вида монах, который подошел к трону и откинул шелк. Нетрудно догадаться, чей портрет скрывался там: вовсе не Мао Цзэдуна.

Конечно же там, под шелком, скрывался портрет Далай-ламы, тибетского царя-батюшки, возведенного на трон в XVII веке монгольским Гуши-ханом, и с тех пор эволюционировавшего из духовного лидера в обычного светского феодала всея Тибета. Мой друг и помощник Церинг тут же бросился ниц перед портретом. А я, хотя и понимая, как приятно будет Церингу, если я сделаю так же как он, так и не смог пересилить себя, и как стоял, так и продолжал стоять. В самом деле, хватит с меня того, что я кланяюсь своему, российскому царю-батюшке, чтобы я кланялся еще и заморским.

Тут надо ответить, что портреты Далай-ламы в Тибете не вполне разрешены, от того этот портрет и стоял, накрытый тряпочкой. Я не смог сдержать своей язвительности и спросил у важного монаха, почему же портрет Далай-ламы стоит под шелком. Монах же этот моей язвительности не заметил, и ответил: “Чтобы властям угодить”. На что я возразил ему:
– Неужели власти не знают, что у вас в зале собраний под шелком стоит портрет Далай-ламы? Сами  же ваши монахи и стучат им, кто пошустрее.
– Конечно власти знают. Но все равно порядок надо соблюдать.
Таков был ответ, коим я в полной мере и удовлетворился. Я попробовал задать важному монаху и другие вопросы, в частности о месте небесного погребения в Ребконге, или где можно найти настоящего шамана, чтобы заказать ему в частном порядке ритуал. На эти мои вопросы важный монах проигнорировал.

Попробовал я зайти на монастырскую кухню, с тем чтобы сделать небольшой фоторепортаж о жизни северотибетских поваров, но был оттуда изгнан с дикими воплями присутствовавшего там недружелюбного монаха. Он выпихивал меня из кухни совсем как маньяк какой-то, чем вызвал мое справедливое возмущение: “Ну что, блин, за фигня?!! Я отдал за вход 40 юаней, и меня не пускают на кухню?!!”

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    • HAHAHA wow!!! WHO PISSED IN YOUR CORN FLAKES “LORNE” Jesus…the guy is fucking at fault here acting like a FUCKING LUNATIC IN PUBLIC with his COMPANY NAME…who does that? If he can prove to people how hot headed he is..then he deserves people knowing his true colours…You obviously don’t see the whole point of the story…This guy had no right to assault anyone like this..its just 100% unnecessary…and so is your comment. Take your craptastic comment and shove it!

    • Nppbeqvat gb zl 'obbx bs purngvat', vg erdhverf QYP gb or gevttrerq. Ohg, V erzrzore gung zl KObk irefvba bs gur tnzr jnf QYP serr naq V gevttrerq gung enaqbz rapbhagre. V erzrzore orpnhfr V jnf natel gung V unq n uhax bs zrgny V unq gb pneel naq pbhyqa'g qb nalguvat jvgu vg.

    • Love that picture! I have three in three too and I always love to read about other mommas doing it! I have an almost three year old, 18 month old, and 5 month old. =)

    • Nice article, well written, I really like the way this site looks, I wish other autohors took the time you are to help fix there site and make it look good. Keep up the great writing!

    • Great blog very nice information i really like your post. Your article its so amazing. After reading your blog i am very helpful & i really thanks full your. Keep blogging.

    • Husreglene kunne passet godt i den snart nyoppussete gangen vÃ¥r;) kjekk giveaway:) følger og kommenterer….og krysser fingrene for vinnerlykke;) fin dag til deg:) Nina

    • سهیل جان‌نثاری می‌گه:این رو توی فیس بوک نوشتم، وقتی این پست رو به اشتراک گذاشتم:این وبلاگ به همین سادگی از لیست وبلاگ های مورد علاقه من حذف می شود. آنجا که شروع به نفرین می کند و وسط بمباران نفرتش، نفرینش را نثار مادران و پدران و بعد فرزندان صهیونیست ها می کند

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