Моё Ганьсу: Северное Предтибетье, часть II

Маленький самолет со смешным драконом на борту взмыл в небо и понес нас за добрые 600 километров на северо-запад. Слева белели снежные вершины. Справа – коричневели холмы и сельхозугодья. И хотя, во время полета никто не предложил ни бутерброда, ни воды, я был очень доволен, сидя в кресле самолета, и более чем зауважал эту авиакомпанию. Весь полет длился не более часа, мы начали снижаться, и вскоре приземлились на маленький аэродром.

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Для проживания я выбрал так называемый Zhangye Qicaidanxia International Youth Hostel. Располагается это заведение довольно далеко (в 4 километрах от центра) в студенческой общаге, и отличается слабым напором горячей воды и чуть более чем полным отсутствием чистоты. Эти маленькие минусы однако скрашивались большим жирным плюсом: в хостеле имеется англоговорящий персонал, и они организуют туры одного дня по окрестностям и достопримечательностям Чжанъе. А это именно то, что мне было нужно.

Такси из аэропорта до хостела стоит 60 юаней, сам хостел стоит 110 юаней за ночь в номере с отдельным душем. Для сравнение, если брать хороший отель 3-4 звезды в центре города, он обойдется вам порядка 250-300 юаней. Вот такие дела, товарищи.

Итак, Чжанъе, небольшой провинциальный городок с населением более миллиона человек обладает рядом удивительных свойств. Во-первых, сам дух этого города, манеры местных жителей, воздух, колорит оказывают на путешественника удивительное умиротворяющее действие. Говоря простыми словами, в нем чувствуешь себя комфортно, и в него хочется вернуться. Я бывал в китайской глубинке, и знаком с этой магической привлекательностью казалось бы невзрачных провинциальных городов. Интересно, но это ощущение возникает сразу, как только попадаешь туда, из чего я лично делаю вывод, что оно не возникает на интеллектуальном плане, как связаное с какими либо достопримечательностями, или историческими событиями: оно просто возникает.

Во вторых, город настолько уютный и невысокий, что представить себе, как в нем могут проживать более миллиона человек, просто невозможно.

Что касается истории города, то он очень стар, и ведет свою историю со времен династии Юань, основанной внуком Чингис-хана во второй половине XIII века. В давние века это был важнейший культурный и торговый центр: здесь проходил Великий Шелковый Путь.

В самом городе имеется ряд неплохих отелей уровня 3-4 звезды, и железнодорожный вокзал, с которого можно уехать в Дуньхуан, другой важный культурный и исторический центр, расположенный на Шелковом Пути.

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