Золото Кхама: Путешествие в Восточный Тибет, день 1-й

Мой самолет из Куньмина в Лицзян опаздывал, и Алексей, чтобы скоротать время, отправился в аэропортовую кофейню чтобызаказать кофе. Он благоразумно заказал две чашки, с тем, чтобы я, сразу по прибытии, насладился этим божественным напитком. Так и вышло: наша прекрасная Декьи, переночевав в аэропортовом отеле, и, надо сказать, неплохом, за 400 юаней, приняла меня у выхода, и препроводила в кофейню, где я упал в кресло, и мне сразу же подали чашку кофе.
Впрочем, Алексей сделал ошибку, заказав самый дорогой кофе, стоимостью 120 юаней за чашку. За такую стоимость, по моему представлению, нам должны были подать как минимум кофе чон из фекалиев циветты. Но, должен с разочарованием констатировать, поданный нам напиток мало чем отличался от растворимого кофе из пакетиков 3-in-1, тех, что можно купить в Китае в любой забегаловке.
Декьи представила нам водителя Еши Сонам, тибетку родом из Шангрилы, которая совсем не говорила по-тибетски. С первого взгляда она не вызвала у меня ни неприязни, ни симпатии. И в целом, это первое впечатление оказалось верным: водитель она превосходный, и здорово нам помогала всю дорогу. Однако, склочный её характер весьма подпортил поездку нашей Декьи, которой приходилось выслушивать бесконечные жалобы и претензии Еши, но об этом я расскажу после.

Обед в Лицзяне

Обед в Лицзяне

Заскочив в банк, и поменяв наличность, мы отправились в офис China Unicom, где приобрели китайские симкарты. Пакет из 120 минут с интернетом 3 гигабайта обошелся около 220 юаней. Кроме того, нам было обещано, что данная симкарта позволяет совершать междугородные звонки. Забегая вперед, скажу, что с международными звонками мы потерпели фиаско, а вот интернет нам очень пригодился: интернет в отелях работает зачастую скверно, и часто приходилось предпочитать ему телефонный интернет от China Unicom. Так, лично у меня за15 дней поездки 3 гигабайта были израсходованы почти полностью.

Обед в Лицзяне

Обед в Лицзяне

Далее, последовал незамысловатый обед в придорожной пельменной, и длительный переезд по серпантину на озеро Лугу. Надо сказать, что из всей китайской пищи пельмени нам пришлись по душе более всего, как самые нейтральные и нежирные. А дорога на озеро Лугу оказалась мало чем примечательна: пыльный серпантин, один в один похожий на те, что уже замылили мне глаз в Непале. Тут произошло одно замечательное событие, которое невозможно не описать.

Переправа через оползень

Переправа через оползень

Переправа через оползень

Переправа через оползень

Начинало уже темнеть, как дорога неожиданно оборвалась строительным забором, перед которым выстроилась очередь из 6 машин. Как выяснилось, на дороге произошел обвал, и нам предстояло обплыть место обвала на пароме. Паром оказался маленьким металлическим судном, способным взять на борт 4 машины за раз, так что мы попадали лишь во второй заход.
Погрузка и разгрузка парома происходят неторопливо, и одна ходка занимает около часа. Поэтому мы оказались на борту лишь когда уже было совершенно темно, и невозможно было разглядеть ни местности, ни самого обвала – лишь лампочки машин светились в машинном отделении. Владелец парома, видя туристов, запросил с нас эксклюзивную нереальную цену — 200 юаней, тогда как с простых смертных положено брать всего 150. И не смотря на все старания Декьи сбить эту цену не удалось.
Сколько мы плыли по времени, я не могу сказать, но в темноте мне показалось, что довольно долго, и, конечно, мы испытали облегчение, высадившись на берег. Отсюда нам предстояло еще два часа езды до озера Лугу.

Луна над озером Лугу

Луна над озером Лугу

Мы не бронировали отеля заранее, и Еши нам здорово помогла, устроив нас в отель, расположенный прямо на первой линии, с видом на озеро. Немного поторговавшись и сбив цену уже даже до неприличной, мы благополучно заселились и погрузились в сон.

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